Himalayan Adventure----Journey to Leh via Manali-1

In this post the General Description regarding the Adventurous journey to Leh Laddakh via Manali -Leh Highway.  It will include Planing for journey, by which mode travel, what are the facilities available en route and general description of route along with altitude.
It used to be dream for Travelers and Trekkers.I was having dream of this journey during my college days when I Visited Manali and Rohtang Pass in year 2000.
 

  PHOTO:Rohtang Pass Made Moterable By BRO

 Planning for Journey

If you are planning for a tour to Ladakh via Manali-Leh Highway, then you need to be fully prepared to tackle all possible challenges that would come throughout this scenic yet treacherous journey. Here's a closer look at the challenges and your possible course of actions to overcome them.

1. Dealing With Altitude Sickness 

The first challenge on your Manali-Leh road trip will be to combat against the signs of Altitude Sickness. Also known as Acute Mountain Sickness or AMS, arises due to our lack of acclimatization with the atmosphere at higher altitude. It is caused by prolonged exposure to low partial pressure of oxygen available at the elevation of 2400 meters above the sea level or higher.
Manali is situated at an elevation of 2050 meters, and you would need to climb as high as 3979 meters at Rohtang Pass at the very beginning of the journey. This sudden rise in altitude results in symptoms of altitude sickness.
The typical mountain sickness symptoms may include - headache, fatigue, nausea or vomiting, shortness of breath, stomach illness, persistent rapid pulse rate and dizziness. Aggrieved symptoms may result in peripheral edema (swelling of hands, feet and face) and gradual loss of consciousness. Fluid accumulation in the tissues of the body parts may even lead to serious consequences. So it's important to take precautionary measures for a safe and healthy journey on Manali-Leh Highway.

Tips for Preventing AMS:

1. Sleeping pills and other respiratory depressants can slow down the acclimatization process. If you are using any medicines for insomnia or relaxation of nerves, then it's better to avoid those ahead of the journey.
2. Same rule applies to alcohol as well. Alcohol tends to cause dehydration. Strictly avoid drinking, even if you are not on the driver's seat.
3. Pre-acclimatization can be helpful. Spending a couple of days at relatively high altitude can help in developing tolerance to low oxygen concentrations before ascending. Instead of finishing the Manali-Leh journey at-a-stretch in 1 day, a night halt at Keylong (3080 m) or Jispa (3200 m) may prove to be helpful.
4. Last, but not the least, if you are traveling with children and do not want to take any chance with AMS, then the best alternative would be to arrive at Leh via Srinagar and depart via Manali. You can use Srinagar-Leh highway for arriving to Leh and take the Leh-Manali highway after concluding your Ladakh tour. Srinagar-Leh national highway offers gradual ascend, so the chances of altitude sickness are far lesser. Moreover, it would allow you to complete the full circle of Srinagar-Leh-Manali highway and you can explore all the important attractions in this whole stretch.

2. Rohtang Pass Permit

As per the rule laid out by the Himachal Pradesh Government, you are not allowed to use the Rohtang Pass route from Manali to Leh if traveling on a non Himachal Pradesh registered vehicle (both private vehicles and taxis). So unless you are using local public transport like bus or local taxi, you must obtain the necessary permit before embarking on the journey. Also, there is strict time-frame for the travel and traffic movements are allowed in between 4 AM to 11 PM. So plan your trip accordingly. Strangely, no such pass is required for the reverse trip - i.e., when you are coming from Leh towards Manali.
SDM Office in Manali is the place from which permits are issued. On a working day, SDM office is open between 10 AM to 5 PM. The office remains closed on all National / Local Holidays, Sundays and second Saturdays. Alternatively, you can collect the permit from the Tourist Information Center and HPTDC office in Manali. Permits can also be obtained from Green Tax Barrier when you enter the Manali town. You need to produce your driving license and vehicle registration papers, alongwith a non-refundable payment of INR 50 per vehicle to obtain the pass.

3. Inner Line Permit (ILP) & Protected Area Permit (PAP)

Even a couple of years ago, for all tourists visiting Ladakh, obtaining Inner Line Permit was mandatory. Although ILP is currently not needed for Indian citizens visiting regular tourist circuits in Leh Ladakh region, there are still quite a few restricted places which requires ILP. Some of the tourist attractions that would need you to produce ILP are Hanle, Tsaga, Chusul, beyond Loma bend, Marsimik La, Chumur and Batalik sectors. You are required to mention all the places that you are planning to cover on your Leh-Ladakh trip in the ILP form. You will not be allowed to visit a restricted place which is not included in your ILP.

Indian nationals can download the Inner Line Permit application form from the internet and apply for ILP at the Deputy Commissioner’s Office in Leh town. The official DC office timings are 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM on all working days but applications for the same day permits are not accepted after 3:00 PM. Alongside the application form, you need to attach a copy of your Government issued ID proof to get the permits approved. Please note that ILP is valid for a period of 21 days from the date of issuance. Make sure to carry a few photocopies of the approved permit, application form, and ID proof. You will need to submit a copy at every check post that you’ll come across during your tour.

For foreign nationals, the process is a bit different. Instead of ILP, foreigners would need to obtain Protect Area Permits (PAP). Protect Area Permits (PAP) can be applied in a group of two or more through a Government of India registered travel agent in Leh district. Xerox copies of your Passport and Visa are mandatory for getting PAP approval. Validity of PAP is 7 days only. If your tour plan is for more than a week, then you would need to re-issue the permit on or before the 7th day. PAP does not cover all the restricted regions. Permits for travelling to a few remote places (for example Changthang region) are exclusively available only to the citizens of India.

Best Time to Travel on Manali-Leh Highway

Manali-Leh Highway is functional only for four and half months in a year.The travel season is dictated by 2 factors - firstly, the opening of Rohtang Pass, and secondly, the clearence of snow at Baralacha La pass. Generally, Rohtang Pass is cleared for vehicle movements around the middle of May, while the snow-clad road surface at Baralacha La takes another week or two for getting fully functional. The travel season starts from the beginning of June and lasts till the end of September. October is the month when snowfalls are expected to start and the high mountain passes gets blocked by the end of October.
The highway remains in poor shape in the beginning of the season. During the early season in May, the BRO workers start clearing the snow and rebuilding the collapsed bridges. After the initial period of repair works, the condition of the road remains at its very best till the end of June. This is the period when Manali-Leh highway remains busiest. Monsoon arrives in the month of July and the heavy downpours result in washing out parts of the road. So the road condition starts to deteriorate from the mid of July.
Naturally, the Manali-Leh highway attracts majority of the crowds from the beginning of June till middle of July. By the start of August, the rush subdues a bit. So if you prefer to avoid heavy crowd, then late August is the ideal time to plan your trip to Leh. But do keep it in mind that the road will not be in complete mess after the rainy days.

Manali-Leh Highway Route Details

The scenic highway originates from the famous hill station of Manali and goes through Keylong, Jispa, Sarchu and Upshi to conclude at Leh after covering a total distance of 478 kilometers.

Manali-Leh Highway (478 KM) Route: Manali -> Rohtang Pass -> Kokhsar -> Tandi - Keylong -> Jispa -> Darcha -> Baralacha La -> Bharatpur -> Sarchu -> Gata Loops -> Nakee La -> Lachalung La -> Pang - > Tanglang La -> Upshi -> Karu -> Leh.

Important Places on Manali-Leh Highway with Their Altitudes:

  • Manali: 1950 Meters
  • Marhi : 3300 Meters
  • Rohtang La: 3980 Meters
  • Khokhsar: 3140 Meters
  • Sissu : 3170 Meters
  • Tandi: 2573 Meters
  • Keylong : 3080 Meters
  • Jispa: 3320 Meters
  • Darcha: 3360 Meters
  • Baralacha La: 4890 Meters
  • Sarchu: 4290 Meters
  • Gata Loops: 4190 Meters
  • Nakee La: 4740 Meters
  • Lachalung La: 5079 Meters
  • Pang : 4600 Meters
  • Moore Plains: 4730 Meters
  • Tanglang La: 5328 Meters
  • Rumste: 4260 Meters
  • Upshi: 3480 Meters
  • Leh: 3500 Meters

Transportation Options

Bus Service:
Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (HPTDC) operates daily bus service between Manali and Leh throughout the travel season. The journey is covered in 2 days with a night halt at Keylong. The bus departs from Manali bus stand at 9 in the morning and reaches Keylong at around 9 PM. After a night's halt, it again starts from Keylong at 5 AM and completes the journey to Leh in another 12-14 hours.

The buses are semi-deluxe in nature and the fare is around INR 2700 per person. You can book the tickets online from HPTDC website in advance at HPTDC: Availability

An even cheaper bargain would be the HRTC (Himachal Road Transport Corporation) buses. But there is no direct HRTC bus from Manali to Leh. To travel by HRTC buses, you need to break the journey in to 2 parts - from Manali to Keylong and Keylong to Leh in two seperate buses. Manali-Keylong in HRTC bus would cost you around 100-150 bucks, while another 400-500 bucks can take you to Leh from Keylong. So you can make a saving of around INR 1000 by doing this break journey on HRTC buses. It may not be a super comfortable journey, but when budget is a concern, then there's no other alternative.

Shared Taxi Service:
Shared taxi is the other cheap option to travel between Manali and Leh. A number of shared taxis, mostly Tata Sumos and Toyota Innovas, depart from Manali taxi stand between 9 PM to 12 PM and arrive at Leh on the next evening without any overnight halt. There will however be 3-4 stops in between for you to have foods and relieve yourself.

From the pricing perspective, a ride in a shared taxi will cost you INR 1200 - INR 1800 depending on the travel season. Prices are highest during the peak season of June-July and starts to drop steadily from the month of August.

Taxi/Cab Hire:
If you are looking for a comfortable journey, then hiring a private taxi is the best option. Lots of taxi operators are there at Manali and their fleets include vehicles of various makes and models.The most economical option is Tata Indica, while Indigo, Logan and Maruti Swift are there in mid-range budget. For more space and comfort, you have the option to hire Toyota Innova or Mahindra Xylo.

There are no fixed taxi charges. Fare fluctuates depending on the season and the tourist rush. The more you can bargain, the lower is the fare that you get to avail. Typically the one-way fare of a Tata Indica would be around INR 12,000, while Swift or Logan can cost you near about INR 15,000. Innovas and Xylos are a bit costly at around INR 18,000 to INR 20,000. Bargain harder with more than one driver and you could possibly get a better deal.

It's important to remember that a Himachal Pradesh registered taxi is not allowed to be used for local sightseeing at Leh-Ladakh. You can only get a drop to Leh town in a HP registered taxi. That's because of a diktat issued by the Ladakh Taxi Union which makes it mandatory to use a taxi bearing Ladakh registration number for the purpose of visiting the tourism circuits. So if your plan is to hire one taxi for the entire Leh trip, then make sure to find a taxi registered at Ladakh in order to prevent any unwanted confrontation with the local taxi drivers.

Own Vehicle and Self-Drive Car/Bike Rentals:
To experience the joy of driving along the Manali-Leh highway, many travelers prefer to take their own vehicles for the Leh trip. It holds true for the motorbike enthusiasts as well. Self drive car/bike rental services are also very popular with many tourists visiting Ladakh. However, do keep it in mind that driving on Manali-Leh highway through the rugged terrains, muddy roads, snow and water crossings require experience and confidence. So unless you are an expert driver/rider, don't even think of undertaking the huge risk.
Lots of tourists undertake Manali-Leh trip on their Hatchbacks and Sedans, so you do not necessarily need a 4WD-SUV. Any vehicle with high ground clearance will be suitable for a comfortable journey on Manali-Leh highway. However, if you own a car with low ground clearance, then do expect it to suffer a few scratches and dents on the underside parts. Similarly, for the bikers, although a heavy-duty motorbike like 500 CC Bullet can offer you the most reliable ride, even a 150 CC Bajaj Pulsar can be used for the journey.
dds of suffering puncture is reasonably higher, and chances of complete breakdown cannot be ruled out either. So it's important to know the basic troubleshooting of your vehicle. Always carry the essential spare parts to deal with any unforeseen events. It's also important to carry extra fuel at all the time during your Manali-Leh trip as only a handful of fuel stations are there on the highway.

Important Note: In the recent past, there have been isolated incidents of blocking and damaging both the private and rented self-drive cars and bikes in Ladakh due to a resolution passed by the Ladakh Taxi Union. Members of the taxi union are trying all they could do to ban the usage of non-local vehicles for visiting the tourist attractions at Leh, with the complaints that those vehicles are affecting the business and livelihood of local taxi drivers and owners.

You are still allowed to use your personal or rented vehicle on the Manali-Leh and Srinagar-Leh highway, but you would need to hire a local taxi from Leh town for the purpose of sightseeing. Popular Self-Drive Car Rental service ZoomCar has issued an advisory in this regard to refrain from using their service to Ladakh till the matter gets sorted.

Bike Rental Shops at Manali:
1. Bike Rentals Manali - Contact No 9816044140. Website - bikerentalsmanali.com

2. Bike Hire Manali - Contact No 9418778899. Website - bikehiremanali.com (They also offer Self Drive Jeep)

3. Manali Bike Rental - Contact No 9816622344. Website - manalibikerental.com

4. Hardev Motors - Contact No 8262800005. Website - hardevmotors.com

5. Manali Enfield Center - Contact No 9816003010. Website - manalienfieldcenter.com

All the above motor bike rental companies have good user reviews, and they all have Royal Enfield motor cycles that you can rent.


Summarized View of Facilities or Amenities on Manali – Leh Highway

Facility
Places
Hotel / Guest Houses Khoksar, Sissu, Gondla, Tandi, Keylong (Many options), Jispa, Upshi
Tents / Camps (Dhaba / Swiss / Normal) Jispa, Darcha, Zingzing Bar, Bharatpur, Sarchu (Many options), Pang
Food / Beverages Marhi, Rohtang Pass, Khoksar, Sissu, Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Deepak Tal, Zingzing Bar, Bharatpur, Sarchu, Pang, Rumste, Upshi
Diesel / Petrol Pumps Tandi (107 KMs from Manali), Karu (36 KMs from Leh)
Mobile Connectivity
  • In our case, mobile signal of Airtel worked till Keylong only and then faded rapidly. The signals were restored after crossing Upshi for Airtel.
  • Of course BSNL has more coverage and better connectivity within this range than any other operator. Airtelworks in Ladakh but with poor connectivity.
  • SMS does work fine for both BSNL and Airtel.
  • Vodafone did not work for us at all after crossing Marhi and not even in Leh -Ladakh.
  • Packet data also works upt Keylong and in Leh packet data is available only with BSNL edge.
  • Prepaid connections do not work in Leh – Ladakh.
Fixed Phones Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Upshi
Electricity Sissu, Gondla, Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Upshi
Medical Facilities Sissu, Keylong
ATMs Keylong
Police Checkpoints Darcha, Sarchu, Upshi, Khoksar (For foreigners only)
Mechanic / Puncture Shops Marhi, Khoksar, Tandi (not sure), Keylong, Darcha, Sarchu, Upshi
Liquor Shops Marhi, Keylong, Darcha, Upshi
Natural Highlights Rohtang Pass, Tandi Confluence, Sissu Waterfall, Deepak Tal, Suraj Tal, Baralacha La, Strange Soil formations, Moore Plains (Wildlife too), Taglang La or Tanglang La, Gata Loops






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